Mezcal: The Artisanal Spirit of Mexico

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Mezcal, often overshadowed by its more famous cousin tequila, is a distilled alcoholic beverage made from the heart of the agave plant, known as the piña. This spirit is deeply rooted in Mexican culture and tradition, offering a unique and complex flavor profile that has captivated enthusiasts worldwide.

All tequilas are technically mezcals, but not all mezcals are tequila. Tequila is a specific type of mezcal. Both are distilled spirits made from the agave plant, but tequila is made exclusively from blue agave and must be produced in specific regions of Mexico, primarily in the state of Jalisco. Mezcal, on the other hand, can be made from various types of agaves and is produced in several regions, including Oaxaca, Guerrero, and Durango.

The origins of mezcal can be traced back to the indigenous cultures of Mexico, who fermented agave to create beverages like pulque long before the arrival of the Spanish. The introduction of distillation technology by Filipino migrants in the late 1500s and early 1600s marked a pivotal moment in mezcal’s history. These migrants brought with them Filipino-type stills, which were adapted by the indigenous peoples to distill agave, giving birth to mezcal.

Mezcal holds a special place in Mexican culture. In the state of Oaxaca, where most mezcal is produced, the spirit is present at both celebratory and somber occasions. It is often consumed straight and is a symbol of Mexican heritage and artisanal craftsmanship.

Production Process

Mezcal is produced using traditional methods that have remained largely unchanged for centuries. The process begins with the harvesting of agave plants, which are then roasted in underground pits. This roasting process imparts the distinctive smoky flavor that mezcal is known for. After roasting, the agave hearts are crushed, fermented, and distilled to produce the final spirit.

Unlike tequila, which is made exclusively from blue agave, mezcal can be made from over 30 different species of agave. This diversity contributes to the wide range of flavors found in mezcal, from sweet and fruity to earthy and smoky.

Categories of Mezcal

Modern mezcal is classified into three categories according to the Norma Oficial Mexicana (NOM-070-SCFI-2016)2:

1. Mezcal: This category allows for modern production methods, including the use of autoclaves for cooking the agave and stainless-steel columns for distillation. It’s often referred to as “industrial mezcal” due to these modern techniques.
2. Artisanal Mezcal: The majority of certified mezcal falls into this category. It prohibits the use of autoclaves, diffusers, and column stills. Instead, the agave is typically roasted in earthen pits, crushed using traditional methods, and distilled in copper stills.
3. Ancestral Mezcal: This category adheres to the most traditional methods. The agave must be pit-cooked, crushed with mallets or stone mills, and distilled in clay pots. The use of stainless steel is prohibited.

These categories ensure that mezcal production maintains its traditional roots while also allowing for some modern innovations. Each category offers a unique flavor profile and production method, contributing to the rich diversity of mezcal.

Internationally, mezcal has been acknowledged as an Appellation of Origin (AO) since 1994. This designation helps protect the authenticity and quality of mezcal, ensuring that only spirits produced in specific regions can be labeled as such. Additionally, mezcal has a Geographical Indication (GI), which initially covered the states of Oaxaca, Guerrero, Durango, San Luis Potosí, Puebla, and Zacatecas. While similar agave-based spirits are produced in other states like Jalisco, Guanajuato, Michoacán, and Tamaulipas, these regions are not included in the official mezcal designation.

Mezcal, like tequila, can be categorized based on its aging process. Here are the main types:

1. Joven (Young): Also known as “blanco” or “abocado,” this type of mezcal is either unaged or aged for less than two months. It has a clear appearance and a fresh, vibrant flavor that highlights the natural characteristics of the agave.
2. Reposado (Rested): This mezcal is aged in wooden barrels for a period ranging from two months to one year. The aging process imparts a light golden color and adds complexity to the flavor, with notes of oak and vanilla complementing the agave’s natural taste.
3. Añejo (Aged): Aged for at least one year, but typically no more than three years, in wooden barrels. Añejo mezcal has a rich amber color and a more pronounced flavor profile, with deeper notes of oak, caramel, and spices.
4. Extra Añejo (Extra Aged): This category is relatively rare in the mezcal world. It refers to mezcal that has been aged for more than three years. The extended aging process results in a dark, complex spirit with a rich, layered flavor profile.

Each type of mezcal offers a unique tasting experience, allowing enthusiasts to explore the diverse range of flavors that this artisanal spirit has to offer. Whether you prefer the fresh and vibrant notes of a joven mezcal or the rich, complex flavors of an añejo, there’s a mezcal for every palate.

Modern Popularity

In recent years, mezcal has experienced a significant surge in popularity, especially in the United States. This growth can be attributed to a rising appreciation for artisanal and craft spirits. Mezcal’s unique and complex flavor profile, which varies depending on the type of agave used and the production methods, has captivated the palates of many spirit enthusiasts.

The increasing demand for mezcal has led to a proliferation of mezcal bars and tasting events, where aficionados can explore the diverse range of flavors and styles. This trend has also been fueled by the growing interest in sustainable and locally-sourced products, as mezcal is often produced by small-scale, family-owned distilleries using traditional methods.

However, this rapid growth has raised concerns about the potential industrialization of mezcal production. There is a fear that large-scale production could compromise the quality and authenticity of mezcal, as well as threaten the livelihoods of small-scale producers who rely on traditional methods. Efforts are being made to protect these traditional practices and ensure that mezcal remains a genuine artisanal product.

Enjoying Mezcal

Mezcal is typically enjoyed neat, allowing drinkers to fully appreciate its complex flavors and aromas. It is often served in small clay cups called copitas or in traditional jicaras, which are small bowls made from the dried fruit of the calabash tree. Sipping mezcal slowly and savoring each sip is the preferred way to enjoy this spirit.

In addition to being enjoyed neat, mezcal is also a popular ingredient in cocktails. Its smoky flavor adds depth and complexity to a variety of drinks. Some popular mezcal cocktails include the Mezcal Margarita, Mezcal Negroni, Oaxacan Old Fashioned and the Mezcal Espresso Martini. These cocktails highlight mezcal’s versatility and its ability to complement a wide range of flavors.

Mezcal is often accompanied by traditional Mexican snacks, such as orange slices sprinkled with sal de gusano (worm salt), which enhances the tasting experience. The combination of mezcal and these accompaniments creates a sensory journey that celebrates the rich cultural heritage of Mexico.

Mezcal Margarita

Ingredients:

• 2 oz mezcal
• 1 oz fresh lime juice
• 1 oz Cointreau or triple sec
• 1/2 oz agave syrup (optional)
• Salt for rimming the glass
• Lime wedge for garnish

Instructions:

1. Rim a glass with salt by rubbing a lime wedge around the edge and dipping it in salt.
2. In a shaker, combine mezcal, lime juice, Cointreau, and agave syrup (if using).
3. Fill the shaker with ice and shake well.
4. Strain the mixture into the prepared glass filled with ice.
5. Garnish with a lime wedge.

Mezcal Negroni

Ingredients:

• 1 oz mezcal
• 1 oz Campari
• 1 oz sweet vermouth
• Orange twist for garnish

Instructions:

1. In a mixing glass, combine mezcal, Campari, and sweet vermouth.
2. Fill the glass with ice and stir until well-chilled.
3. Strain the mixture into a rocks glass filled with ice.
4. Garnish with an orange twist.

Oaxacan Old Fashioned

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 oz mezcal
• 1/2 oz reposado tequila
• 1 tsp agave syrup
• 2 dashes Angostura bitters
• Orange twist for garnish

Instructions:

1. In a mixing glass, combine mezcal, tequila, agave syrup, and bitters.
2. Fill the glass with ice and stir until well-chilled.
3. Strain the mixture into a rocks glass filled with a large ice cube.
4. Garnish with an orange twist.

Mezcal Espresso Martini

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 oz mezcal
• 1 oz freshly brewed espresso (or strong coffee)
• 1/2 oz coffee liqueur (such as Kahlúa)
• 1/2 oz simple syrup
• Coffee beans for garnish

Instructions:

1. Brew a fresh shot of espresso and let it cool slightly.
2. In a shaker, combine mezcal, espresso, coffee liqueur, and simple syrup.
3. Fill the shaker with ice and shake vigorously until well-chilled.
4. Strain the mixture into a chilled martini glass.
5. Garnish with a few coffee beans.

Final Thoughts

Mezcal is more than just a spirit; it is a tribute to Mexican tradition, culture, and artisanal craftsmanship. Each bottle tells a story of the meticulous process of selecting, harvesting, and roasting agave, preserving practices that have been passed down through generations. As mezcal continues to carve its niche in the global spirits market, it remains a celebration of Mexican culture and the skilled artisans who bring this extraordinary spirit to life. Whether enjoyed neat or in a cocktail, mezcal offers a rich and diverse tasting experience that continues to win over new enthusiasts around the world.